If you are new to photography and using Adobe Lightroom you have probably noticed that the thumbnail preview looks much better than the actual photo when you open the file. You may be wondering why Lightroom always darkens your photos and how you can combat this issue.

Three main reasons explain why Adobe Lightroom is darkening your photos and they are listed below:

1. You are importing a photo taken in RAW format
2. Lightroom presets need to be selected or changed
3. Lightroom import settings are not correctly selected

For a more detailed explanation of why Adobe Lightroom always darkens your photos and other helpful information continue reading.

Why Lightroom Darkens Your Photos – Explained

Whether you are a professional photographer or just having some fun snapping pics of the things you love in your life you want the final product to look great.

When importing your photographs into an editing program you expect them to look as they did when you looked at the thumbnail preview of the photo on your digital camera. Unfortunately, when you open the file this is not the case, but don’t worry because there are three good reasons as to why Adobe Lightroom might darken your photo when it is imported.

Initial Format Makes a Difference – RAW vs JPEG Formatting

One of the largest reasons Adobe Lightroom will make your photos appear darker when you first import them to the program is that the original photograph was taken using the RAW format.

When a photograph is taken using RAW formatting the imported product can appear dull, flat, and unclear even though the thumbnail preview has a clean processed look.

Adobe Lightroom automatically uses a JPEG thumbnail created by your digital camera for you to preview before opening the file and that is why you will notice a change in the photo once it has loaded.

Nowadays, most digital cameras automatically display a small JPEG version of the photograph you took for you to preview, however the actual file will generally be in RAW format. If you don’t have a lot of time or do not do a lot of editing you can specifically change the settings on your camera to automatically process it as a JPEG.

Preset Settings Can Affect Initial Import

Using preset photo editing settings in Lightroom can be a huge time saver however, sometimes it can be a pain if you are not sure what settings are selected.

Oftentimes when people have issues with Lightroom darkening their photos it is because some presets may be selected that need to be changed. Sometimes it can be helpful to restore the Lightroom settings to the default and go from there until you have the settings the way you like.

Many serious photographers prefer not to use preset settings because they like to do the editing on their own for each photo.

If you do not fall into that category then you will be happy to know that there are oodles of options for presets that can quickly enhance your photographs and allow you to move on to your next project.

Lightroom comes standard with several preset options for editing photographs; however, if those are not to your liking other preset packages can be downloaded from the web. Many photographers and designers will make their preferred presets available to others who wish to edit their photos quickly and have a professional-looking outcome.

Importing Photographs Into Adobe Lightroom

Similar to the preset settings that can be used while actually in the Lightroom program there are settings that can be saved for when you import a photograph.

Sometimes people run into issues with photos being darkened because of certain settings being selected on the import file box. This is another time when it can be helpful to restore the settings to the default state and begin fresh.

Don’t Let The Pros Sway Your Preferences

Some professional photographers are adamant that RAW files are the best as they offer more options for editing and allow the photographer full control of the final image which is true; however, don’t let the professionals affect your preferences.

If you like having your photographs automatically processed as a JPEG would be, then hold your head up high and save those presets so you can save some time.

Many great photographs have been made via either format, the true determiner of whether or not the image is great is the photographer’s knowledge of placement and exposure and what is interesting. If the content is captivating the photo will be too.

So now you have a more clear understanding of why Adobe Lightroom may be darkening your photographs but what do you do when you’re done? Keep reading to find out.

What To Do When You’re Done – Saving Correctly

Once your photograph is edited you are ready to save the file so you can send it to a client or perhaps upload it to a social media platform.

Either way, you may be concerned that the RAW file format is too large for some applications to upload, or perhaps some platforms may not recognize RAW files. Fear not because you can easily save your photograph as a JPEG which will flatten the file and be accepted by more applications so it can easily be uploaded.

Photos Can Still Be Corrected After Saving In JPEG Format

Be sure to click on “save as” and select the JPEG format option when you are finished editing the photograph.

The great thing about this is you will still have the original RAW file so if your client is not satisfied or you need to make any further corrections you can open the original and not worry that your changes cannot be undone.

Don’t Despair When Photos Look Too Dark In Lightroom

As you can see from the information in this article, it is not the end of the world if your photographs do not match the thumbnail preview displayed when opening a file in Lightroom.

Now that you understand the difference between RAW files and JPEG files you can relax if you notice that your photo is darker when you open it in Lightroom and know that the settings can be easily changed to suit your taste.

Shooting in RAW can be one of the most beneficial decisions when it comes to editing images in post-processing. However, what happens when you upload your photos and the files show up as JPEG instead?

RAW files can often show up as JPEGs for several reasons:

1. The camera is set to RAW + JPEG mode
2. Your software isn’t configured to show RAW previews
3. The photos were shot in JPEG, not RAW

Digital cameras can sometimes be frustrating to use, especially if the settings are not producing the way that you expect. Keep reading for more information on why your RAW files are showing up as JPEGs and how to fix it.

Why Are RAW Files Showing Up As JPEGs?

Working with digital photography can be tricky, especially if you’re still trying to figure out all of the settings on your camera. Not to mention, making sure you are using the right programs and settings on your computer in the post-processing stage.

If your photos are showing up as JPEG on your computer or editing software, and you are sure you set the camera to RAW, there are a few different reasons this could happen. Most of the time, this is an easy fix. However, there are some cases where you’ll need to learn from the mistake to avoid it in the future. Let’s dive in!

1. The Camera Is Set To RAW + JPEG Mode

RAW files can often show up as JPEGs if the camera is set to RAW + JPEG mode. Generally, the JPEG will only show up by default, but the RAW image file is still present.

RAW + JPEG mode lets you shoot and save in both file formats at the same time. What this does is capture the photo in both JPEG and RAW and saves two copies. This lets you preview and use a JPEG image immediately, but also saves all of the information that you would find in a RAW file.

If it’s possible, select the option to “Use RAW as original” in the editing mode of your camera to resolve this.

2. Your Software Cannot Show RAW Previews

Another common issue people run into is that the software they are using doesn’t have the ability to show RAW previews. Instead, the software is set up to load only JPG previews of those RAW files. So while the program is saying that they are JPGs, the files are actually RAW.

Keep in mind that a RAW image cannot be displayed by either your computer or camera. When you shoot in RAW, a JPEG is embedded in the RAW file, which is what you see on your camera’s screen when you play back the picture. This is the same thing happening on your software.

One way to check the file is to look at the file size. Since RAW files hold a lot of information, the size should be quite large. As long as it’s in the range of 20 MB, then it’s probably fine. Anything smaller is a JPEG.

3. The Photo Wasn’t Taken In RAW

Finally, there is the possibility that the photo wasn’t taken in RAW. This is especially possible if you are apt to switch between zone settings while shooting.

Generally speaking, a camera’s RAW setting won’t always be the same on different zone settings if it is on one.

This isn’t true for every camera, but it is a mistake that can happen on many. Make sure to always check your settings while shooting to avoid any mishaps.

What Is The Difference Between JPEG and RAW Files?

The main difference between a JPEG and a RAW file is how much information they can hold. Let’s say your camera is set to RAW + JPEG. The two files that you see on your computer will come from the same moment, but can be vastly different.

A JPEG image is essentially a RAW image that has been processed based on your camera’s settings. For example:

• Color
• White balance
• Contrast
• Saturation

The actual RAW file is unaffected by any of those settings. But when you first open the file in a program like Lightroom to make edits to your RAW file, it will be aware of the JPEG and apply the processing to the image.

However, that’s just a starting point for whatever processing you want to do. In fact, one of the main reasons for shooting RAW instead of JPEG is that when you edit the image, you can undo or change all those in-camera settings after taking the shot.

Final Thoughts

Working with RAW images can sometimes be challenging, especially if they aren’t uploading the way they should. Hopefully, this article gave you enough information to help you pinpoint what the issue is so that you can fix the problem and avoid it in the future.

You want to be a top-notch designer and have been told that tonal shading is an essential skill to learn but you are not sure why. Knowing why designers use tonal shading and how it can affect the outcome of the finished product will give you a better understanding of the importance of perfecting this skill.

Most designers use tonal shading to show the direction in which the light is shining. Additionally, tonal shading is used to give an image or scene depth. The use of tonal shading allows designers to create more realistic, three-dimensional drawings.

For more detail and specific examples of why designers use tonal shading, continue reading.

How And Why Designers Use Tonal Shading

Designers use tonal shading for more than just filling in an area with darkness. The level and style of shading used can change the entire look and perception of the image or object.

The important thing to remember is to apply the correct amount of pressure in the right areas to make the image believable and realistic.

Filling in an area with solid black without a change in pressure to create a gradient leaves an image looking flat and free of dimension.

Gradually fading from dark areas to lighter areas will give the image or object depth. The use of tonal shading tells the viewer which direction the light is coming from.

Below are examples of different styles of shading. Each style can be used individually for specific applications or in conjunction with one another to create a truly dynamic image.

Parallel Hatching

Parallel hatching is one of the simplest ways to create shading and can be done by using multiple parallel lines placed closely together. These lines can be of varying thicknesses depending upon the image or object being drawn.

The primary thing to remember is to apply the appropriate pressure as you are getting closer to the light to create a gradient. This tip applies to all methods of shading.

Cross-Hatching

This method of shading is also very simple and can be accomplished by making one layer of parallel lines as described above.

Next, you will make a second set of parallel lines in the opposite direction creating a checkered pattern.

Contour Hatching

Contour hatching is exactly like parallel hatching except that the lines follow the shape of the object or subject in the image. Once again different thicknesses of lines can change the appearance of the object or image and make it pop out at the viewer.

For example, if the object you are shading is shaped like an egg you would make your lines follow the shape of the egg. The contour of the lines helps to give extra definition and dimension to the object or image.

Stippling

Stippling is a really fun yet time-consuming way to shade an image and can also be used to create an entire object or image.

Stippling is a method where tons of dots are placed closely together to create a shadow or create a shape. When stippling it helps to have an understanding of negative space and how you can use the dots to create an unbelievably realistic image.

The best way to create a true gradient using the stippling technique is, to begin with, solid black and begin with larger dots placed closely together, as you move toward the light the dots will gradually become smaller and you will apply less pressure until they are too small to see.

Tick Hatching

Tick Hatching is simply shading created by making small scratches or “ticks” nearly on top of one another.

These ticks can be made similarly to the other methods in that you will begin with the darker areas and gradually reduce pressure as you work toward the light.

Woven Hatching

Woven hatching is exactly as it sounds. If done properly the end result will look similar to that of a basket weave. The best way to describe how to do a woven hatch is to draw four parallel lines on paper.

Next, make four more parallel lines but place them so they butt up against the first set on the long side. Continue alternating this pattern until it looks like it has been woven. It takes a good eye and some practice to master this skill but it can be a really great way to bring dimension to certain objects or images. 

Tonal Shading to Bring Depth and Perception

As you can see from above, one of the most important skills to learn as a designer is tonal shading. Mastering this skill and having a true understanding of how light and different types of shading techniques can bring depth to an image or object will bring you to the top of the list.

Lightroom is a fantastic batch editor and photo management tool, loved by countless photographers across the globe. However, with batch editing comes a lot of photos, and that means your Lightroom catalog can fill up pretty fast. So, you might be wondering if it’s safe to delete old catalogs, or is there a reason to hold onto them?

As a general rule, it is a good idea to delete old Lightroom catalogs on a regular basis. Depending on how long you have used Lightroom, some of the files you have may be quite old or outdated. These can take up space on your computer, creating a less efficient storage system.

Removing files can be somewhat nerve-racking, especially when you are not sure what will happen with them. Keep reading to learn more about safely deleting old Lightroom catalogs and why this is a good idea.

Do You Need To Keep Old Lightroom Catalogs?

If you are new to using Lightroom, you may not have a full understanding of what catalogs are and why you need them in the first place.

A catalog is a database file specific to Lightroom. When you import and edit your Lightroom photos, this is where they are stored, along with image previews and other crucial data.

All of the files in your Lightroom catalog, though, might not be necessary. Some of your files might be quite old, depending on how long you’ve been using Lightroom. Some of them most likely have something to do with long-gone projects or clients of the past.

Over time, these outdated catalogs can build up. This uses up a lot of storage on your computer that could be used for other things. You will need to use your judgment as you browse the catalog to determine which files are important to keep and which are just taking up space.

Why Does Lightroom Take Up So Much Space?

In order for Lightroom to function, you must import photos into your Adobe cloud storage first. These photos serve as the foundation for all edits. Lightroom Classic, on the other hand, links to files saved on your computer’s local storage.

Additionally, since Lightroom utilizes a database system, you are not directly working with the original files. Instead, it keeps data on them in a collection of files called the Catalog. This includes details like metadata and any adjustments you might have made.

Although this is excellent for non-destructive editing, a lot of space may be required. Lightroom copies the images you import into it to a different folder on your computer’s local drive before uploading them to the cloud. These images stay here, taking up your hard drive storage without you even realizing it.

Where Are Lightroom Catalogs Stored?

Knowing where their working catalog is located on their computer is one of the most crucial things a Lightroom user should know.

To find your catalog location, start by launching Lightroom and clicking on the Edit tab. Now select Catalog Settings and navigate to the General tab. Here, you should see an information box that lists details about your catalog. This includes:

• Catalog location
• File name
• Date created
• Last backup date
• Size

Now, if you need to move your catalog or delete it altogether, you can easily find it.

Should You Delete Old Lightroom Catalog Backups?

Your Lightroom catalog will contain a large number of backup files. Lightroom generates backup copies of the edited images as you work on them. When you unintentionally lose a file, this is incredibly helpful. In that case, simply use the backup catalog to restore it.

Although useful, this takes up a lot of storage space. After all, the number of files you are working with is essentially double. Once these backups are no longer required, it is a good idea to delete them over time. This can help free up storage and keep Lightroom running smoothly.

How To Clean Up Your Lightroom Catalog

Your Lightroom catalogs may occasionally need to be deleted. It is crucial to keep in mind, though, that deleting a catalog also means that all of your Lightroom work that hasn’t been exported as a new file is lost.

For a quick and easy way to delete your entire catalog, you will need to access your file search system (Explorer for Windows or Finder for Mac OS). Simply locate the folder that contains your catalog, and drag it to the Recyle Bin on your desktop.

If you aren’t sure where the catalog is, remember that you can find the location in the Catalog Settings. Use that location to open the Lightroom catalog folder.

Deleting Catalog Backups

The local Lightroom catalog you use will contain several folders. The backups will be kept in one of these. Finding the backup folder is the first step to deleting a backup.

Start by opening the folder and deleting the desired items. The files you want to delete can be manually selected. However, it is best to refrain from erasing every backup you have. Remove the old backups instead, and look for any that may have become corrupted. Once deleted, your computer will have far more storage space.

Clean Out Cloud Storage

You receive a certain amount of cloud storage when you sign up for an Adobe Creative Cloud plan. When you import image files into your catalog, Lightroom uses this storage to keep the complete versions of those files. Your amount of cloud storage could range from 20GB to 1TB, depending on your Creative Cloud plan.

If you are shooting in RAW, you’ll probably fill up your storage faster than you think. Despite the fact that Lightroom does not allow you to store these files exclusively locally, you can move them into Lightroom Classic in order to free up cloud storage space.

Final Thoughts

Lightroom catalogs are useful to anyone working with larger batches of photos. However, this can also eat up a lot of storage space, whether that be locally or on the cloud. Hopefully, this article gave you a clearer idea of how catalogs work so that you can safely delete them when need be.

Adobe Lightroom is one of the most popular photo editing applications on the market, and for a good reason. This program gives photographers all the tools they need to create the best images possible, especially when it comes to simulating how images will look after printing using the “simulate paper and ink” option. But what do you do if this option is greyed out?

Below, we’ll discuss four fixes you can employ that will allow you to use this helpful soft proofing tool. Keep reading to learn everything you need to know!

Why Is Lightroom Simulate Paper and Ink Greyed Out?

Lightroom’s “Simulate Paper & Ink” feature is a great way for photographers to get a better idea of how their photos will look on paper and make adjustments accordingly. Part of a larger idea known as “soft proofing,” simulating the look of an image on paper allows you to optimize your edits to get the best possible printed result.

If you’d like to try your hand at soft proofing, you’re probably pretty excited to try out the Simulate Paper & Ink feature. But what happens if this option is greyed out on your menu?

The most important thing to remember is that this feature will only be available if you’re using the correct type of color profile. Any RGB-based color profile, such as Adobe RGB or sRGB, will not work.

How to Fix Greyed Out Simulate Paper and Ink On Lightroom

There are four fixes you can try to activate the “simulate paper & ink” option, all of which involve changing your color profile.

These include:

1. Select a printer profile
2. Connect a printer to your computer
3. Download and install the correct printer profile
4. Calibrate your computer monitor

Below, we’ll highlight how you can employ these four solutions.

1. Select a Printer Profile

The easiest way to make the “Simulate Paper & Ink” option available on Lightroom is to select a printer profile. This feature is not available for traditional RGB color profiles, so it will stay greyed out unless you’re using a printer profile.

Follow the steps below to change the color profile you’re using in Lightroom:

1. Select the “Develop” menu
2. Press “Soft Proofing” underneath the image you have open
3. Go under “Profile”
4. Select “Other”
5. Choose the printer connected to your computer
6. Go to the “Intent” menu
7. Choose either “Perceptual” or “Relative”
8. Check “Simulate Paper & Ink”

Now, you can see how your image will look once it’s printed on paper on your computer screen. If you’d like to save an untouched copy of the image, select “create proof copy.”

2. Connect a Printer to Your Computer

While not all printers include their color profiles in their software, there are a few that do. If you used to be able to choose your printer’s color profile in Lightroom but can no longer find it, it may be because you’ve since disconnected your printer or uninstalled the drivers.

If your printer is not currently plugged into your computer, reconnect it. If necessary, follow the on-screen instructions to reinstall the drivers and software.

Once you’ve successfully connected your printer and installed the necessary components, check your list of color profiles once again and see if you can find your printer profile.

3. Download and Install the Correct Printer Profile

On the other hand, there are some printers that do not offer their color profile information in the software that comes in the box. Until you have the correct color profile in your Lightroom library, you will not be able to select and use it to soft proof your photos.

Luckily, it’s not difficult to find your printer’s color profile online and download it to your computer. Be sure to choose your exact printer model, as well as the exact type of paper you’ll print your photos on.

If you’re having your photos printed elsewhere, such as at a pharmacy’s printing center, try calling ahead and asking what type of printer they use. Downloading the correct color profile will ensure the most accurate soft proofing experience possible.

How to Install Your Printer’s Profile

After downloading your color profile from the internet, you will need to install it on your computer.

If you’re using a Windows computer, this is as simple as right-clicking on the file and pressing “Install.” If you’re using Lightroom on a Mac computer, you’ll need to:

1. Move the file to your profiles folder
2. Navigate through “Library,”
3. Go to “Printers,”
4. Go to “ColorSync,”
5. Select “Profiles,”
6. Place the file there

Be sure to activate the “show hidden files” option before you do this. Otherwise, you may not see the folders you need to get to.

4. Calibrate Your Monitor

If you’ve chosen a printer color profile and still cannot select “Simulate Paper & Ink,” you may need to calibrate your computer monitor. While an uncalibrated computer monitor will not usually prevent you from selecting this option, it’s a good idea when you’ve exhausted all other options.

Calibrating your monitor involves changing various display parameters to show the most accurate:

• Colors
• Brightness
• Level of contrast

It’s a critical process for photographers who want to create the best soft proofing they can before printing their photos.

How to Calibrate Your Monitor

The easiest way to calibrate your monitor is by adjusting your brightness and contrast levels using calibration test images, which can easily be found online. However, this is also the least accurate method.

If you want the most accurate calibration possible, download a monitor calibration tool from a reputable website. These tools can read your screen display, then automatically correct it to reproduce the best colors possible.

Final Thoughts

Adobe Lightroom’s “Simulate Paper & Ink” feature is a crucial tool for any photographer who wants to soft proof their photos to ensure the best possible look prior to printing. However, some users find this option greyed out in their soft proofing window.

If Simulate Paper & Ink is greyed out in Lightroom, it’s almost always because you’re not working with an appropriate color profile. This feature will only work if you’re working with a printer color profile, and it will not be available if you’re using a traditional RGB color profile.

Sometimes, the images or graphics we can create can look different when published or printed. Lighting, color, and many other factors play a part in this. Thankfully, there is an option in Lightroom that can make this easier.

Proof Preview is a feature in Adobe Lightroom that lets you view your images before you share them online. You can do this by clicking the “Preview” button in the bottom right corner of the image window.

If you want to know what your photo looks like without sharing it, then Proof Preview is perfect for you. There are several reasons why previewing your images using this method is a good idea before uploading them. Read on to find out.

What Does Proof Preview Mean in Lightroom?

When shooting images or designing graphics, we often don’t know what our final output will be until after we’ve taken the shot. We may not even know how the image will look until we publish the image and view it in the intended environment of the final product.

Sometimes, we just need to take a quick peek at the image to see if it’s going to work out well before we waste those resources, after all ink is expensive, and if we are sending our designs out to someone else, we want to make sure they look professional. That’s where proof preview comes in handy.

Soft proofing is a term used in photography to describe the process of using a printout of your image to check if the colors look correct before printing. In Lightroom, soft proofing is known as “Proof Preview” mode and functions with much the same purpose.

Why Is Proof Preview a Good Idea?

It’s never a good idea to publish work without checking to see if everything is correct beforehand.

Here are some reasons why you should use Proof Preview in Adobe Photoshop Lightroom to save yourself trouble in the long run:

• You can make sure that your photo is ready to go online. If you have uploaded your photos to social media sites like Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, etc., then you probably don’t want to upload something that isn’t ready to go. By using Proof Preview, you can check out how your photo will look before you post it.
• You can edit your photo before posting it. When you click the “Edit” button in the top left corner of the image window, you can change any settings that you want to adjust. You can even add text to your photo. Once you are done editing, you can save your changes and continue with your workflow.
• You can easily find your photos. You can search through your entire library by typing keywords into the search bar at the top of the screen. You can also sort your photos by date taken, location, camera model, and many other options.

These handy features make it easy to notice and correct any defects in your image that you might not have seen beforehand. It’s important to keep in mind what kind of environment you want photos to be viewed in, because that will factor in how they look.

What Causes Images to Look Different than What We See?

Light is the primary factor that determines how well your image looks.

You can use software to adjust the brightness and contrast of your images, but you cannot change the color temperature of the environment, therefore it’s important to know what your image will look like depending on the lighting it will be displayed in when it is printed.

Color is also a factor. The colors we see on our monitors can be different when we see them in print, or even in other monitors or displays even if it is the exact same image. Previewing images can give us a sense for how this can look.

How to Find Proof Preview in Lightroom

To find Lightroom’s proof preview mode, there are a few steps you need to take.

They include:

1. Head to the Develop Module and find the setting there. It is an icon resembling an eye. You will see 2 images, your original, and the preview image. Take a moment to spot the differences and see if you can notice any irregularities or if anything seems to be out of place.
2. When you click on Proof Preview, Lightroom will apply a temporary proofing profile to your photo. This profile is based on the currently selected printer and paper type in the Print module.
3. You can change these settings by going to the Print Settings panel (in the left sidebar).
4. If you want to see how your photo looks with a different proofing profile, you can select it from the Profile drop-down menu in the toolbar.
5. Lightroom comes with a few built-in profiles, or you can create your own custom profiles.
6. Once you’ve selected a proofing profile, take a look at your photo and see how it looks.

If you’re happy with how it looks, then you know that your photo will look good when printed with that particular profile. If not, then you can try another profile until you find one that you’re happy with.

If you want to avoid the hassle all together, you can go for an online service that can design graphics for you easily like Placeit.

What Else Can I Do With Proof Preview in Lightroom?

The features we listed aren’t just what proof preview can do in Lightroom.

You can also:

• Create custom collections. By adding tags to your photos, you can organize them into different categories.
• Create custom collections based on certain criteria. This makes it easy to find exactly what you’re looking for when you have a lot of photos.
• Share your photos. You can export them to a variety of file formats including:
  • JPEG
  • TIFF
  • PNG
  • GIF
  • PSD
  • PDF
  • EPS
• Choose between saving your edited version of the photo or exporting the original unedited version.

Now you know what proof preview is in lightroom and what you can do with this feature.

Concluding Thoughts

Lightroom’s Proof Preview is a great option for making sure your images will look right when you are ready to display, export, and share them. A lot of times, many issues can be commonly avoided by just giving our images a quick check before we finalize them, and with Proof Preview, this can be made easy.

Most photographers prefer to edit their RAW files before converting them to a more widely-readable format. However, some experience times when their RAW files are much noisier than other file formats, such as JPEG. Why does this happen?

Below, we’ll discuss the four most common reasons for excessive noise in RAW camera files. Keep reading to learn what they are and how to combat them!

Why Are RAW Files So Noisy?

Working with RAW files usually allows photographers to make more precise edits to their photos without compromising quality. However, some people notice that their RAW files have significantly more noise than other formats. Generally, this will happen for one or more of the four following reasons:

1. The way RAW photos are processed
2. You used too long of an exposure
3. Your ISO setting is too high
4. The way you’ve edited the photo

Below, we’ll discuss more information on each of these four reasons and how you may be able to combat excessive noise. 

1. The Way RAW Photos Are Processed

If you shoot in both RAW and JPEG formats, you may notice that your RAW photo files are noisier than your JPEG files. This is because of the way your camera processes the two different formats.

JPEG images are processed according to your camera settings and rendered before you upload them to your computer. This means things like automatic noise reduction are already done before you even see the photo.

On the other hand, RAW images show you the raw data from your camera. No automatic noise reduction is done, meaning you’ll see more noise in your RAW files than in your JPEG files by default. 

2. You Used Too Long of an Exposure

Longer exposure shots are inherently noisier than shorter exposure shots. If you set the exposure too long, the camera’s sensor heats up and creates noisier shots.

The best thing to do in this situation is to learn how well your camera handles long exposure shots. Shoot a series of photos at different exposure lengths, then check each photo to see how noisy they are. Every camera is different, so your maximum exposure length will depend on your model.

Some cameras offer a built-in feature to combat this, called “long exposure noise reduction.” Turn this feature on if you need to shoot a long exposure photo but want to avoid excessive noise. 

Keep in mind that this feature will increase processing time, so it may not be the best idea if you need to shoot a series of long exposure shots.

3. Your ISO Setting is Too High

Your camera’s ISO setting controls the amount of light your camera lets through the lens. A higher ISO makes your camera more sensitive to light, brightening up darker shots.

Allowing too much light through your lens increases a photo’s noise levels. While every camera is different, noise will generally increase around ISO 1600 or 3200. However, some can handle ISOs up to 6400 or 12800 before the noise levels noticeably increase. 

Shooting at a lower ISO is the easiest way to decrease noise levels in your RAW files. If your photos are too dark at a lower ISO, there are a few things you can try to brighten them up without raising the setting:

• Open your aperture more
• Lower your shutter speed
• Use your camera’s flash

Each technique will allow for a brighter shot without raising your ISO to a higher level.

4. The Way You’ve Edited the Photo

If you notice that your RAW files are getting noisier as you make your edits, it’s probably due to the way you’ve edited the photo. Many adjustments can cause this, including:

• Increasing brightness. This brightens up any shadows in your photos, also brightening the noise in the shadows.
• Increasing saturation. This can increase variations in the colored parts of your photo, also known as chrominance noise. 
• Using peripheral illumination lens correction. This will generally increase the noise in the corners of your photos.

While making some of these edits is unavoidable, be aware of the adjustments you make and check after each to ensure you’re not creating a lot of noise.

In Conclusion

RAW camera files are inherently more susceptible to excessive noise than other formats. This is because they’re raw data from your camera, with little to no processing done before you see the photo. 

Other settings, such as long exposures and high ISOs, can also increase a RAW photo’s noise. Excessive noise may even be caused by the way you edit your photos after uploading them.

Are you having trouble with Photoshop automatically rasterizing images when you import them or are you receiving an annoying pop-up that states the image must be rasterized before editing? You may be wondering what this means and how you can stop Photoshop from rasterizing layers.

Vector-based images imported into Photoshop are automatically rasterized; to avoid this images can be edited/saved using software designed for editing vectors. Then the image can be opened and edited in Photoshop. Creating duplicate layers also helps with the issue of Photoshop rasterizing layers.

For a more detailed explanation of how to stop Photoshop from rasterizing layers continue reading.

Why Does Photoshop Rasterize Layers – Here’s Why

If you are importing a vector-based image into Photoshop there is nothing you can do to stop the program from rasterizing the layers in the file.

Photoshop automatically rasterizes vector-based files so you can no longer edit the image as it is however the image will generally not change in appearance until you start zooming in.

You will see a difference in the edges and sharpness when doing a side-by-side comparison of a vector-based image to a rasterized image.

Certain Changes Require Rasterizing

The reason Photoshop requires you to rasterize your layers is their tools will only work on a rasterized layer because they work with pixels. Some of those tools include:

• Brushes
• Fill tool
• Eraser tools
• Filters

When you are working in Photoshop and wish to make certain changes to a vector-based image you will be greeted with a pop-up dialog box informing you that the layer must be rasterized in order to continue with the desired task.

Now you have a basic understanding of why Photoshop is rasterizing your images and layers so you can learn what to do to stop it from happening if you wish.

Stopping Photoshop From Rasterizing Layers – What to Know

Although it can be a little more time-consuming there are ways to prevent Photoshop from rasterizing the layers of your vector-based image.

Beat Photoshop To The Punch

The first way to stop Photoshop from automatically rasterizing your image when it is imported is to first edit and save the image you wish to import by using a program designed for editing vector-based images.

Programs such as Adobe’s Illustrator or any of the free online programs should be sufficient for what you need.

Some examples of programs you can use in lieu of Adobe Illustrator are:

• Placeit
• Affinity
• GIMP
• Inkscape
• Pixlr
• Vectr

Once you have made the edits and saved your work in one of the programs mentioned above you can import the image and make any further changes or additions once in Photoshop.

Duplicate Layers Save Time And Frustration

A great workaround to this issue is to create at least one duplicate layer of the image you wish to make changes to. This will come in handy and can be a real lifesaver if you make a mistake and need to go back.

Keeping a “spare” layer also allows you to try different techniques and effects to see what looks the most appealing.

Of course, you can always hit the “undo changes” button if you are still working on the project as long as you have not automatically save your progress.

Once you have saved your work there is no going back. That is another reason to always create duplicate layers and entire duplicate documents.

How To Revert Rasterized Layer In Photoshop Quickly

If you have rasterized a layer in Photoshop whether intentionally or accidentally and wish to undo this action there is a very simple keyboard shortcut you can follow listed below.

To undo the rasterization of a layer, simply press the Ctrl + Z keys on your keyboard to undo the last step.

If you have already performed other actions you will need to access the history menu and click on the action listed before you rasterized the layer. This will undo all actions that you have completed up to that point.

Duplicate and Save In Multiple Formats

You may be wondering what to do once you are satisfied with your design and the changes you have made. The best thing is to create more than one version of the finished product.

Save one file in its raw, unflattened state and then save the second file in its compressed format so you can easily upload it to the web or send it to a client if necessary. You will still have the original copy as a backup in the event you need to make corrections.

Preparing Image Before Importing Simplifies Design Process

Understanding why Photoshop rasterizes images and layers can relieve some of the frustration you receive when trying to edit and save your vector-based images. As you can see, by properly preparing the image in a different program before importing it into Photoshop you can save a lot of time and frustration and will be happier with the end result.

If you are new to Photoshop, there are probably a variety of tricks and tools you aren’t quite familiar with. One of those might be subtracting shapes from an image.

There are a variety of ways to subtract shapes in Photoshop:

• Combine shapes in the Layer menu
• Make a selection with the marquee tools
• Use the magic wand tool
• Invert selections to subtract around shapes

Subtracting shapes in Photoshop can be a quick and easy process, as long as you choose the right tools and know how to use them. Below, you’ll learn about the best ways to subtract shapes in Photoshop, so you can easily decide which method is best for your project.

How Do You Subtract A Shape In Photoshop?

Subtracting shapes is a great way to quickly create designs in Photoshop. Whether you’re designing business cards or creating websites, this is a useful skill to know and one you may use more than you think.

However, not all design projects are the same and will require the same editing methods. While it may seem pretty straightforward to subtract shapes in Photoshop, the method you use will depend on the look you are trying to achieve.

The easiest way to figure out which methods to choose is to open up your document and try them out for yourself.

Combine Shapes In the Layer Menu

The most straightforward way to make a shape subtraction is to use the Subtract Front Shape option from the Layer menu. This is best used for those who are working with multiple shapes and would like to subtract one from the other to create an entirely new shape.

For example, let’s say you would like to make a crescent moon shape. Start by creating two overlapping circles of the same size on your canvas.

Next, make sure both layers are selected and click on the Layer tab in the menu bar at the top. Find Combine Shapes and select Subtract Front Shape. This will remove the front circle and anything behind it, leaving behind the crescent moon shape.

Make A Selection With The Marquee Tools

Using Subtract Font Shape isn’t the only way to create a crescent moon. Another way is to use the marquee tool to subtract shapes from an image.

To do this, first, start by creating your base circle. Next, grab the Elliptical Marquee tool from the toolbar. Holding the Shift key to create a perfect circle, create a round selection that overlaps your existing shape.

After your selection is made, hit the Backspace on your keyboard to delete the selected area. You should now be left with a crescent moon. To deselect the selected area, simply press Ctrl/Command + D.

Subtract Shapes With the Layers Panel

Continuing with the crescent moon example, let’s subtract shapes using the Layers panel.

Start by creating two overlapping circles on your canvas. Next, hold Ctrl/Command, and select the thumbnail of the top circle in the Layers panel. You should see a dotted selection appear around the circle on your canvas.

Release the Ctrl/Command and click into the layer that contains the bottom circle. Press the backspace button on your keyboard to delete the selection. Now hit Ctrl/Command + D to deselect the selection.

Now, remove the top circle from view by either hiding it in the Layers panel or deleting the layer altogether. You should be left with a crescent moon on your canvas.

Invert Selections To Remove Everything But the Shape

One final option for subtracting shapes is to do an inversion. This is best used when you like to keep the element within a shape and remove everything outside of it.

Let’s say you are creating a t-shirt with a geometrical design. You have filled your canvas with your chosen pattern, but you would like the design to be in the shape of an oval.

Grab your Elliptical Marquee tool from the toolbar and create a selection on your canvas. Next, click Select from the menu you bar and choose Inverse. This will change the selection to everything on the outside of the oval, instead of everything on the inside.

Now, hit the backspace to delete the selected area and you should be left with an oval shape filled with your design. You can now save and upload your design to a site like Placeit, and you should only see the oval-shaped pattern across the t-shirt.

Final Thoughts

This article should have given you a few ways to subtract shapes in Photoshop. Depending on what you hope to achieve, each method of subtracting shapes has its pros and cons. Which one you use will ultimately depend on the complexities of your design and your preferred style of editing.

Sometimes when you create your signature through Adobe, it may not be thick enough. It may be too small to really show up well. Thicker will make it easier for anyone to see, and it won’t look transparent.

There are a few ways that you can thicken your signature via Adobe Photoshop. You can start from scratch and recreate a whole signature, or you can edit a signature that you always have. Either way, you can use these methods to thicken your signature.

How to Thicken a Signature in Photoshop

There are a few different methods you can do to fix your signature, so it is thicker and darker. Some of the simpler methods are as followed:

1. Create a new signature in Photoshop
2. Use the Minimum Filter
3. Trace over the line of the original signature

There are a few other methods, but these are the simplest and easiest way for you to change the thickness of your signature.

Create a New Signature

Creating a new signature within Photoshop is one of the easiest ways to make a new, thicker signature. All you have to do is follow a few steps before you begin drawing out your signature. Here are those steps:

1. Open a new file within Photoshop.
2. Choose what type of line you want to draw.
3. Click on the fill color (black) for that line.
4. Find the settings icon (a gear) and click on it.
5. Locate “Path Options,” and you will find thickness under there.
6. Click on the level of thickness you would like.
7. Once you have drawn it out, ensure you save the file, usually a .png document.

Always test the different thicknesses of the line to see what best fits you. You may even want to test the signature on a fake document so you can see what it looks like. You don’t want to realize your signature is too dark by placing it on an official document.

Use Minimum Filter

This method is just a little more complicated than the first, but still pretty simple. This method is also good if you already have an image of your signature. You can download your signature and make the edits within Photoshop. This is what you need to do:

1. Open up the image you want to edit.
2. Click on “Filter” at the top of your Photoshop program.
3. Find “Other” in the drop-down menu and click on it.
4. Another menu will pop up where you will choose “Minimum.”
5. Here you will change the radius of your pixels.
6. Adjust the pixel to what you want it to be.
7. Save the image.

When changing the radius, the favorite setting is usually four or five. You can change the radius of your pixel to however large or small you want. Test it out to see which one is your favorite before saving your signature.

Trace Over the Line

Tracing over the line may be a little cleaner than if you choose to use the minimum filter. To do this method, there are more complex steps than you do the previous two methods, but it still can be done. 

First, you will need to separate the signature from the background. To do that, you need to follow these steps:

1. Unlock the layer.
2. Change your image to “grayscale.”
3. Go to “Channels” and select “Load Channel.”
4. Then go to your “Layers” option.
5. Delete the background.
6. After, press Ctrl+D to deselect the background.
7. Change to “RGB Color.”
8. Add “Solid Color” to your adjustment layer.

You have now separated the signature from the background and can now thicken the lines. This is how you do it:

1. Go to “Select” on the top of the program and find “Color Range.”
2. A window will pop up; ensure you check the “inverse” box.
3. Under “Select” again, you will choose “Modify” and then “Expand” for size.
4. Go to “Edit” and click on “Fill.”
5. Now save it as a .png file.

You do not have to delete the background first, but it is best to do it this way. You can wait until the end to get rid of the background, but that is your choice. This method is less rigid when it comes to the order you do these steps.

Outro

Making your signature thicker and more prominent doesn’t have to be difficult. You can do it with these simple steps or just start over. Whichever one best fits you is the one you can do. There is no need to make things complicated.